20090301

the vibrational theory of smell

There are a couple perfume related books: 1) The Emperor of Scent, by Chandler Burr about renegade scent scientist Luca Turin, and 2) Luca Turin's (& Tania Sanchez') Perfumes, the A to Z Guide.

I have read the former, and it is excellent and fascinating. The latter is universally praised, and made Turin's reputation among purveyors of scents.

The author is reputedly gifted with the talent of identifying and vividly (and accurately) describing scents, whether in colloquial speech or chemical signifiers. His is the renegade champion of the vibrational theory of smell, which he advocates against the backdrop of an industry (perfume) and scientific culture which takes it for granted that it is the shape of a molecule, rather than its vibration, that causes that molecule's smell.

I have not read the latter, because I am not so much interested in perfume as in identifying (and avoiding) the chemical that triggers my migraines, probably a solvent of some sort. If I did read the Perfume Guide (I can't quite remember the name of the book, and my Emperor of Scent is out on loan, but it is probably the _one_ among such guides, if there are others), then I'd have to deliberately smell some of the scents described (so that words like "chypre"* - some common base scent ingredient - could be imbued with meaning), and then I'd have to go be medicated or otherwise recuperate. Maybe in some ideal future; more likely not.

*Chypre is the name of a family (or concept) of perfumes characterized by a hesperidic top note of citrus notes such as bergamot, orange, lemon or neroli, and a mossy-woody-animalic base note derived from oak moss and labdanum.